🔗 Share this article

Jack Martin

Styling Professional operating from the Golden State who excels at platinum tones. He works with Jane Fonda and renowned personalities.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

I highly recommend a microfibre towel, or even a smooth cotton shirt to remove moisture from your strands. Many are unaware how much stress a regular bath towel can do, notably with lightened or dyed strands. A simple switch can really minimize flyaways and damage. Another affordable staple is a large-gap comb, to use in the shower. It protects the hair while detangling and helps preserve the strength of the hair shafts, particularly post-bleaching.

Which investment truly pays off?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with smart temperature control. Grey and blonde hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

DIY bleaching. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with striped effects that are extremely difficult to fix. I also don’t recommend chemical straightening processes on bleached or silver hair. These chemical systems are often too aggressive for weakened hair and can cause chronic issues or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. A number of people misuse violet-based cleansers until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. Others rely too much on strengthening conditioners and end up with unmanageable, weak locks. A further common mistake is using hot tools sans safeguard. In cases where you employ styling appliances without a heat protectant, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I also recommend follicle treatments containing stimulants to stimulate circulation and promote root strength. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps clear out buildup and allows products to perform better. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, tension and lack of vital nutrients.

In cases requiring advanced options, PRP therapy – where a personalized serum is applied – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Hair loss is often tied to underlying health issues, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

---

A Hair and Scalp Specialist

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley services and items for shedding.

What’s your routine for trims and color?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself fortnightly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

What affordable find is essential?

Toppik hair fibres are remarkably effective if you have thinning spots. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it almost invisible. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had a lot of hair fall – and also currently as I’m going through some marked thinning after having awful flu a few months ago. Since hair is non-vital, it’s the earliest indicator of health issues when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the most effective improvements. I believe minoxidil mixed with supporting compounds – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for hereditary thinning in males, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Hardly anyone is biotin deficient, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can affect thyroid test results.

Which error is most frequent?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the primary purpose of washing is to remove buildup, flakes, perspiration and dirt. I see people avoiding shampooing as they think it’s damaging to their locks, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they decompose and cause irritation.

Unfortunately, what your scalp needs and what your hair likes don’t always align, so it’s a balancing act. However, if you cleanse softly and treat damp strands kindly, it shouldn't harm your hair.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. It's backed by strong research and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. If you then want to try other things to support minoxidil’s effect, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try collagen induction therapy (with a specialist), and perhaps PRP or low-level laser therapy.

For TE, you need to do some detective work. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as illness, infection or high stress – and it will clear up naturally. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus